One cannot drink tea without tea ware, which refers to the specialized utensils used for brewing and drinking tea leaves, including pots, bowls, cups, trays, and saucers. The ancient Chinese were very particular about the artistry of their tea ware, which is another significant aspect of their tea-drinking culture. A set of exquisite tea ware paired with a fine tea that excels in color, fragrance, and taste can truly complement each other. As the custom of Drinking Tea grew in popularity and evolved over time, the variety of tea ware increased and the quality became more refined. At least ten types of tea ware are required for drinking Kung Fu tea. They are:
First: Tea Pot
In Chaozhou dialect, it is called “Chongguan,” or sometimes “Su Guan,” because it originates from Yixing, Jiangsu province, where the smallest type of Yixing clay pot is made. When selecting a tea pot, there are four criteria to consider: smallness, shallowness, evenness, and age. Tea pots come in various sizes, such as those suitable for two, three, four, or more people. Pots made by famous artisans like Mengchen, Tiehuaxuan, Qiupu, Epu, Xiaoshan, and Yuan Xisheng are highly prized. There are many shapes and sizes, ranging from small ones resembling tangerines to larger ones resembling pomelos, as well as gourd-shaped, persimmon-shaped, lozenge-shaped, drum-shaped, plum blossom-shaped, and more. Generally, drum-shaped pots are preferred for their symmetry and sturdiness. Tea pots come in various colors, such as cinnabar red, old iron chestnut, purple clay, stone yellow, sky blue, etc. However, regardless of shape and color, the most important thing is that the pot should be “small rather than large, shallow rather than deep.” This is because a large pot would not qualify as “Kung Fu.”
Second: Tea Cups
When choosing tea cups, there are also four criteria: smallness, shallowness, thinness, and whiteness. Smallness ensures that the cup can be emptied in one sip; shallowness prevents water from remaining at the bottom; whiteness like jade enhances the color of the tea; and thinness like paper helps enhance its aroma. Chaozhou tea connoisseurs prize the white-bottomed, blue-flowered, flat-bottomed, wide-mouthed cups inscribed with “Ruoshen's Precious Collection,” although they are now difficult to find. White porcelain cups produced in Jingdezhen, Jiangxi and Fengxi, Chaozhou are also excellent and commonly known as “White Apricot Cups.”
Third: Tea Washing Bowl
The shape is similar to a large bowl, available in various depths and colors. For brewing Kung Fu tea, you need three: one main and two secondary. The main washing bowl is used to soak tea cups, the secondary ones to soak tea pots, and one to hold the rinse water and used tea leaves.
Fourth: Tea Tray
The tea tray is used to hold tea cups and comes in various shapes, such as round moon-shaped or checkerboard-shaped. Regardless of the design, the most important thing is to adhere to the four criteria: width, flatness, shallowness, and whiteness. The tray should be wide enough to accommodate multiple cups based on the number of guests; the base should be flat to prevent the cups from wobbling; the sides should be shallow and the color white, all to enhance the beauty of the tea cups and pot.
Fifth: Tea Mat
The tea mat is smaller than the tea tray and is used to place the tea pot. It comes in various designs, but it is essential to remember “shallow in summer, deep in winter.” A deeper mat in winter allows for more boiling water when pouring over the pot to keep the tea warm. The tea mat should be lined with a “mat felt,” which is made from loofah cut to fit the size and shape of the mat. Loofah is used instead of cloth to avoid any unpleasant odors. The mat felt serves to protect the tea pot. After pouring tea, the pot is often inverted to prevent water accumulation, as even a little water can make the tea bitter due to the dissolution of tannic acid.
Sixth: Water Jug and Water Basin
Both serve the same purpose of storing water for tea brewing. The water jug has a slender neck, sloping shoulders, and a flat base, with a handle. Porcelain ones with blue-and-white decoration are best. Another type has a constricted neck and spout, decorated with coiled dragons, known as Coiled Dragon Vases, which are also quite nice. The water basin is used to store water for tea brewing and is the size of an ordinary flower pot, with many different designs. Ming dynasty “Red Gold Overglaze” basins use gold enamel to depict two golden fish at the bottom, which appear to move when water is scooped out, a rare and precious item.
Seventh: Dragon Jar
A large dragon jar is similar to a lotus jar used in courtyards, though slightly smaller. It is used to store a large quantity of spring water, covered tightly and placed on a wooden stand in a corner of the study, giving an antique appearance. Dragon jars are also made of blue-and-white porcelain, some dating back to the Xuande period of the Ming dynasty, but these are rarely seen.
Eighth: Red Clay Miniature Stove
Red clay miniature stoves are made in Chao'an, Chaoyang, and Jieyang, and come in beautiful designs. They have various forms, characterized by being rectangular and around six to seven inches tall, with a deep and small central area for charcoal. This ensures even heat distribution and efficient use of charcoal. The small stove has a lid and door, which can be closed when not in use to save fuel and provide convenience. The stove often features a pair of elegant couplets on its door, enhancing the tea-drinking experience.
Ninth: Sand Kettle
The “sand kettle,” most famously made in Fengxi, Chao'an, is commonly referred to as a “tea kettle” and is made of sand clay, making it very lightweight. When the water boils, the small lid automatically lifts and makes a distinctive sound, indicating that the water is just right for brewing tea. While steel or aluminum kettles can be used to boil water for tea, metal kettles do not produce the same quality of water for brewing tea and are therefore considered less than ideal for Kung Fu tea.
Tenth: Feather Fan and Steel Tongs
The feather fan is used to fan the fire. Fanning requires strength and precision to maintain a consistent flame without fanning too far to either side of the stove, ensuring the correct temperature and showing respect to guests. Custom-made feather fans not only facilitate the proper technique for brewing Kung Fu tea but also add to the ambiance. A fan made of pure white goose feathers, larger than the palm, with a bamboo handle and silk tassels, complements the various colored tea wares and the golden-brown tea, adding to the charm. Steel tongs are used not only for handling charcoal and adjusting the fire but also to keep the host's hands clean.
Varieties of Kung Fu Tea Leaves
The type of tea leaves used for Kung Fu tea is limited to semi-fermented teas from Fujian, such as rock tea, stream tea, and the Phoenix Watersage from Chaozhou (all belong to the Green Tea category). Other Chinese Tea categories such as black tea, green tea, brick tea, scented tea, and white tea are unsuitable. If brewed using the Kung Fu method, they often become unbearably bitter. Only semi-fermented green teas are considered the best. Traditionally, the best Kung Fu tea is made using Oolong Tea from Fujian, including rock tea from Wuyi Mountain in northern Fujian and stream tea from southern Fujian. Oolong tea is a general term, with summer tea being produced in northern Fujian. Tieguanyin is mainly produced in Anxi, southern Fujian, and is thus also known as stream tea. Rock tea and stream tea have numerous varieties, including Qizhong, Dancong, Mingcong, Dahongpao, Shuixian, Yizhichun, and