Water is the mother of Tea, and utensils are its father, serving as vessels that nurture and hold tea.
Tea utensils are the medium through which we appreciate and savor tea, and “when utensils are exquisite and clean, they enhance the beauty of the tea.” Therefore, the choice and arrangement of tea utensils play an indispensable role in the enjoyment of tea. With the development of modern society and changes in tea-drinking customs, tea utensils have evolved in terms of variety, form, and meaning, bringing not only delicious tea but also a sense of joy and comfort.
❃ Water Kettle and Stove
A well-suited set of water-heating tools can inspire endless possibilities for tea lovers. The “Yushu Wei,” one of the “Four Treasures of the Tea Room,” refers to the water kettle, while the “Chaoshan Lu” is the stove used for boiling water.
The Yushu Wei is a small, flat pot made of thin, reddish porcelain with a capacity of about 250 milliliters. When the water boils, the lid makes a bubbling sound, as if calling out to brew tea. Nowadays, this type of kettle is rarely used. In most teahouses, slightly larger purple clay pots from Yixing, often shaped like pumpkins or Dongpo teapots with handles, are preferred. Iron kettles are also used, known for their rustic charm and ability to produce soft water that tastes smoother and sweeter, enhancing the flavor when brewing tea. However, iron kettles can be quite heavy. Water boiled in a silver kettle tastes soft and sweet, and the kettle itself is not too heavy, though it tends to be more expensive.
❃ Teapot
The teapot is at the heart of tea utensils, and its size, material, and shape significantly impact the aroma and taste of the tea. During the Ming Dynasty, small teapots were favored, as “small teapots prevent the dispersion of flavor and the hiding of fragrance.” Xu Cishu mentioned in “The Tea Manual: Cups and Pots” that silver and tin teapots are beneficial for tea, followed by glazed ceramic teapots. Unfortunately, old ceramic teapots are often unable to withstand sudden exposure to boiling water, causing them to crack. Although Yixing clay teapots were highly regarded by tea enthusiasts at the time, they needed to avoid being fired at insufficient temperatures, which could result in earthy flavors overpowering the tea.
A good teapot should have a tightly fitting lid. To test this, fill the pot three-quarters full with water and then cover it. Press your finger against the air hole on the lid and try to pour the water. If the water does not come out, the lid fits tightly. Additionally, the pot should be evenly proportioned, with a round mouth. The spout, knob, and handle should align vertically, forming a straight line. When you remove the lid and place the pot upside down on a table, the mouth and spout should be level. The pour should be smooth and steady, with a strong, long, round, and firm stream. If the flow rate is too slow, it will affect the quality of the tea. The spout should cut off the flow cleanly without dripping or backflowing.
Most importantly, a teapot should feel comfortable and easy to use when lifted. Everyone's hands vary in size, length, and shape. When selecting a teapot, consider how well it fits your hand. Some handles are awkward to grip, or the center of gravity may be too forward, making it difficult to handle. Such a teapot is not ideal. After filling the teapot with water, it should feel balanced and stable when lifted with one hand and poured slowly.
❃ Pot Stand
The original function of the pot stand was to keep the tea table neat and dry, catching the hot water used to warm the teapot. Warming the teapot is done to enhance the tea's true flavor, and a deep pot stand is required for teas that need high-temperature brewing to catch the hot water. When using a deep pot stand, remember to promptly pour out the cooled water after warming the teapot, rather than leaving the teapot immersed in cold water, as this can lower the temperature and negatively impact the flavor. Over time, it can also cause uneven discoloration on the teapot.
When brewing teas that do not require warming the teapot, you can freely choose various shallow dishes or frameless mats in different materials, colors, and sizes to complement the teapot, highlighting its lines and aesthetics. Sometimes, even a simple stone slab or pebble arranged carefully by the tea enthusiast can serve as the main stage for the teapot, much like the lotus seat beneath Buddha's feet.
❃ Gaiwan
A gaiwan, also known as a covered cup, is a three-piece tea utensil consisting of a lid, bowl, and saucer. In the Qing Dynasty, floral teas became popular in the north, and gaiwans with insulating properties and larger capacities developed. A gaiwan has a wide mouth, allowing clear views of both the tea and the leaves. Drinking involves using the lid to push aside the leaves before sipping directly from the bowl, or lifting the lid to the nose to enjoy the aroma. The saucer prevents scalding when holding the cup. When choosing a gaiwan, try it out personally. Sometimes, the opening may be too large to handle comfortably. Also, ensure that the lid is easy to move, facilitating the handling of the leaves during brewing.
❃ Tea Pitcher
The tea pitcher, also known as a fairness cup, is named for its ability to evenly distribute tea among cups. It is sometimes referred to as a “sea of tea,” as described in Chapter 41 of “Dream of the Red Chamber,” where Miaoyu ridicules Baoyu: “One cup is for tasting, two cups are for quenching thirst, and three cups are for drinking like a cow or a donkey. What do you call drinking from this sea?”
When selecting a tea pitcher, make sure its capacity is larger than that of the teapot, as it is used to mix tea and sometimes needs to accommodate two infusions. Therefore, the capacity should be greater than that of the teapot to avoid overflow. Choose a pitcher with a wide opening for easy pouring from the teapot. Like the teapot, the pour from the tea pitcher should be smooth and steady, avoiding spills.
❃ Tea Cup
A cup of tea that moves us is the result of various subtle factors coming together, and the power of the tea cup can change the character of the tea. Using cups of different materials, colors, shapes, sizes, heights, thicknesses, and thinness can transform the tea, sometimes resulting in surprising differences. Regardless of the type of tea, using a good cup can enhance the aroma, color, and taste, making it more delicate, rich, and enchanting.
What makes a good cup?
1. Choose based on the type of tea being brewed
Traditional kung fu tea requires thin porcelain cups. According to Wang Huidong in “Chaozhou Tea Classic: Kung Fu Tea,” “elegant and small cups, no more than an inch in diameter, are made of white porcelain from Jian kilns. They are as thin as