Scented tea originated in the Song Dynasty, began to be produced in the Ming Dynasty and was perfected in the Qing Dynasty. In the late Qing Dynasty, Zhang Changyi established Zhang Yiyuan Tea Shop, which has been passed down through generations, specializing in the production and sale of Jasmine tea. During the Republican era, Zhang Yiyuan Jasmine tea became well-known throughout Beijing. Regulars at bathhouses and theaters almost always requested Zhang Yiyuan tea by name, and Peking Opera masters such as Qiu Shengrong, Ma Lianliang, Tan Fuying, and others were all regular customers of Zhang Yiyuan.
Zhang Yiyuan jasmine tea is made using spring tea from Fujian oolong green tea as the base tea, which is scented multiple times with jasmine flowers.
Zhang Yiyuan Teahouse bustling with customers
Production Techniques
1. Raw Material Inspection (Tea Base and Flowers Inspection): Strictly inspect the tea base, and select jasmine flowers that are full-bodied, evenly sized, and have a lustrous white color.
2. Tea Base Processing: Process different grades of tea into piles for refined production, requiring the tea base moisture content to reach 8%, with an appearance that is clean, uniform, and free of foreign objects.
3. Flower Processing: The jasmine flowers required for Zhang Yiyuan jasmine tea use the summer flowers produced between the Summer Solstice and the End of Heat for processing and production.
The flower processing mainly includes two technical processes: feeding flowers and screening flowers.
Jasmine Flowers
Source: “Beijing Zhang Yiyuan” Official WeChat Account
Feeding Flowers: After the flower buds enter the factory, they are spread out. When the flower temperature approaches room temperature or is 1-3°C higher than room temperature, they are piled up. When the pile temperature reaches 38-40°C, it is turned over and cooled. This process is repeated 3-5 times. The purpose of feeding flowers is to maintain the quality of the fresh flowers, promoting even ripening and fragrance release.
Feeding Flowers
Source: “Beijing Zhang Yiyuan” Official WeChat Account
Screening Flowers: When the opening rate of jasmine flowers reaches 70% and the opening degree (the angle formed by petals after the flower bud opens) reaches 50-60°, screening begins. The mesh size of the screen is 12mm, 10mm, and 8mm, used to grade the flowers. When the opening rate of the graded jasmine flowers reaches more than 90% and the opening degree reaches 90°, it meets the suitable standard for scenting.
4. Mixing Tea and Flowers: Ensure the tea and flowers are evenly distributed and complete the mixing work within 30-60 minutes after the opening rate and opening degree of the jasmine flowers meet the technical standards. The pile height is generally 25-35cm to avoid excessive volatilization of jasmine Essential oil.
Mixing Tea and Flowers
Source: “Beijing Zhang Yiyuan” Official WeChat Account
5. Resting and Scenting: For the first scenting, the resting time is 12-14 hours. As the number of scentings increases, the resting time can be gradually reduced, and there is generally no need for ventilation during this period.
Resting and Scenting
Source: “Beijing Zhang Yiyuan” Official WeChat Account
6. Removing Flowers: Also known as taking out the flowers, this involves sifting out the spent flowers to separate the tea and flowers. Removing flowers should follow the principles of proper timing, speed, and thoroughness. When removing the flowers after the fifth scenting, the spent flowers are still fresh and white with residual fragrance, and must be pressed or dried into flower flakes in a timely manner. Pressing usually takes place between 10:00-11:00 AM, with the spent flowers mixed with the tea base and piled up to a height of 40-60cm, then left to rest for 3-4 hours before the flowers are removed.
Separating Tea and Flowers
Source: “Beijing Zhang Yiyuan” Official WeChat Account
7. Drying: Controlling the drying moisture is crucial during drying. Generally, the moisture content after the first scenting is about 5%, the second scenting about 6%, and the third scenting about 6.5%, with each subsequent scenting increasing slightly. The drying temperature is generally 80-120°C and decreases gradually with each additional scenting.
8. Removing Foreign Matter Before Reflavoring: Zhang Yiyuan jasmine tea has very high standards for appearance, so any foreign matter, fragments, dust, and flower buds generated during the scenting process must be thoroughly removed before re-flavoring.
9. Reflavoring: After drying, some of the tea's floral freshness may be insufficient. To compensate for this shortcoming, during the final scenting, a small amount of high-quality jasmine flowers is mixed with the tea and left to rest for 6-8 hours. The flowers are not dried after removal but are directly blended and packed.
Packaged Finished Product
10. Blending and Packing: First, blend a small sample. After passing tests for moisture content, dust, and quality appraisal, the tea can be blended and packed according to the ratio.
Quality and Brewing
Zhang Yiyuan jasmine tea is characterized by “clear broth, rich flavor, fragrant aroma upon entry, and endless aftertaste.” When brewing, a glass or covered bowl is typically used, preheated, with 3-5 grams of tea brewed with 95°C hot Water. The first infusion is steeped for 30-50 seconds before pouring out for drinking, with each subsequent infusion increasing by 10 seconds, allowing for five or six infusions.
Inheritance and Protection
The production skills of Zhang Yiyuan jasmine tea were listed in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage representative projects in 2008, with Wang Xiulan as its national representative inheritor.
Wang Xiulan
Wang Xiulan, born in 1968, took over as general manager of Zhang Yiyuan in 1992. After assuming office, Wang Xiulan apprenticed under Zhang Shix