Phoenix oolong Tea is characterized by its warm and spicy nature, sweet and mellow taste, and extraordinary aroma. It is renowned for its unique qualities such as “solitary and high fragrance,” “drinkable perfume,” “aromatic, sweet, and lively,” and “distinctive mountain character.”
For tea enthusiasts, the primary concern is often how to select, which aspects to focus on, and how to identify quality before delving into the nuances of aroma and flavor.
Evaluating Dry Tea for Quality
The appearance of dry Phoenix Oolong Tea can be assessed in terms of shape, color, uniformity, and cleanliness across four aspects.
The tightness of the leaves can indicate whether they come from high-altitude or low-altitude areas, were picked young or mature, or harvested during different seasons. The shape can also reveal any flaws in processing that led to loose and flat leaves.
The luster and freshness or dullness of the color can help determine the aroma quality.
Teas with a glossy and vivid color generally have purer and higher aromas, while those with a dull color have lower, mixed aromas.
Dull colors are usually due to old leaves, excessive bruising, delayed killing of the green, or too low or high temperatures during drying.
The color can also indicate the presence of floral or varietal aromas.
Yellowish-brown colors typically suggest a more pronounced floral aroma, whereas dark brown colors indicate a stronger varietal and character aroma.
The uniformity and cleanliness can indicate the flavor's purity and complexity.
Pursuing the Rich and Subtle Aroma
The aroma of Phoenix oolong tea varies based on the different strains of Phoenix and Lingtou oolongs. By smelling the aroma, one can judge the varietal character, regional characteristics, and harvest season based on its intensity and longevity.
Phoenix oolong is known for its floral aroma, a combination of varietal character and fermentation aroma. The varietal character (congwei) is typically evident in the aroma, while the fermentation aroma is expressed as floral. The intensity and longevity of the floral aroma can indicate the completeness of the processing.
The variety-specific aroma is a unique scent characteristic of each strain. For example, the Baixian strain has a fragrance like orchids, the Baiye strain like honey, the Dawuye strain like ginger flowers, the Bitou strain like night-blooming jasmine, and the Jueduozi strain like apricot. However, these need to be evaluated comprehensively based on their intensity, clarity, duration, and other factors. High-quality Phoenix oolongs require a strong and clear floral aroma.
Lingtou oolong is a unique honey-scented tea. Its “floral-honey aroma” can indicate the adequacy of the processing. The “floral-honey aroma” can subtly indicate the altitude of the origin.
When evaluating the aroma after brewing, it should be done over two to four infusions. Some teas only reveal their aroma by the third infusion, while others lose it by then. The aroma should be smelled hot, warm, and cold, repeatedly compared. It can be smelled briefly or continuously to assess its depth.
High-quality Phoenix oolong teas have an “enduring” or “subtle” aroma, while average-quality ones are “floating.” Superior teas have a less intense but “enduring” and “subtle” aroma in the brewed tea.
Tasting for Sweetness, Liveliness, and Character
Taste evaluation is the most direct method to distinguish between high and low altitude teas, ancient tree teas, and plantation teas. The concentration, sweetness, and aftertaste of the taste are closely related to the origin, fresh leaf picking, processing, and climate. Phoenix oolong is the strongest among oolong teas in terms of astringency, with a thick mouthfeel and strong aftertaste. “Mountain character” and “honey character” are distinctive style features of Phoenix oolong.
To evaluate the taste, sip the tea into your mouth, allowing air to carry the tea into your mouth so that the upper part of your mouth can touch the misty tea. Continuously move your tongue to allow the tea to contact the various taste receptors (sweet at the tip, salty and sour on the sides, sour on the back, and bitter at the root and center) to assess the taste.
The taste characteristics of high-altitude old trees in Phoenix oolong are: thick, fresh, long-lasting, strong aftertaste, and distinct mountain character. High-altitude mature trees have a concentrated, thick, fresh taste, strong aftertaste, floral aroma, and distinct mountain character. Middle-altitude teas are sweet, refreshing, with a distinct varietal character and some mountain character. Low-altitude teas are harmonious and refreshing with strong astringency. Most refined Phoenix oolongs share the characteristic of “orchid aroma and Osmanthus taste.”
Spring teas have a thick, delicate, fresh, and strong aftertaste. Autumn and winter teas have a concentrated, fresh taste and a shorter aftertaste.
Regarding the “mountain character” and “honey character” of Phoenix oolong:
The “mountain character” of Phoenix oolong is created by the high-altitude environment, reflecting the minerals present there. It has a bold and free-spirited character, reminiscent of the earth's scent after a heavy rain.
The high-altitude environment contributes to a higher proportion of amino acids in the fresh leaves, giving them a moss-like taste similar to those found in foggy regions. This results in a deep and lingering taste. The “honey character” of Lingtou oolong refers to the unique honey sweetness.
The “floral-honey aroma” of Lingtou oolong has a remarkable honey aroma, a sweet aftertaste, and a lasting impression, leaving a fragrant sensation in the mouth and throat, even after multiple infusions without bitterness or astringency, only thickness, sweetness, and refreshment.
Understanding Liquor Color to Judge Processing
The liquor should be golden and bright, lighter yellow if processed with light heat, and turning Orange-yellow if fully fired.
Over-processed or under-killed teas will have a darker and murky liquor.
Charred residue at the bottom of the cup indicates too high a temperature or excessive killing.
Good Phoenix oolong teas have a clear and transparent liquor. Under strong light, a distinct golden rim can be seen around the edge of the cup, indicating high quality.
Identifying the Leaf Bottom to Understand Processing
Place the leaf bottom into a white Porcelain dish filled with water to clearly see the age and bruising degree of the raw materials, as well as whether the killing and drying processes were appropriate.
High-quality Phoenix oolongs, due to being made from high-altitude and tender leaves, have soft, bright, and resilient leaf bottoms. The ideal leaf bottom is soft, bright, and uniform, with “green leaves and red edges.”
This actually refers to pale yellow veins, pale yellow-green centers, and distinct red edges. Red spots may not be