Lincang, a treasure house of ancient tea trees, has seen the rise of the Mengku tea region in the past and the Ice Island (Bingdao) Old Village at the top in recent years. In recent years, many first-class famous villages such as Xigui and the Five Villages of Bingdao have emerged. Besides these, there are still many lesser-known but equally high-quality tea villages. In this feature article, Lu Li will introduce two rising stars – Nahan tea, the king of teas, and Mangfei tea from Yongde.
The King of Teas: Nahan Tea
Apart from Xigui, which can rival Bingdao, the most famous tea in Bangdong is Nahan. Nahan is located near Xigui, not far away, with similar taste and texture, but much more affordable prices. Many tea merchants sell Nahan tea under the guise of Xigui, making it difficult to distinguish between the two without a direct comparison. Therefore, it's worth learning more about this tea village.
Nahan, also known as NaHan, is located in the eastern part of Lincang District, bordering Xiaoman Gang to the north and Manglu Mountain to the south. It belongs to the Manggang Village Committee of Bangdong Township. The entire village can be divided into Upper Nahan and Lower Nahan, with a population of over 200 people. It is 4 kilometers away from the Village Committee and 16 kilometers from the township government. Nahan is about 20 kilometers from Xigui, but the mountain roads are not easy to navigate, requiring about an hour's drive. If you plan to visit both tea villages, it is recommended to stay overnight locally and return to Lincang the next day.
There is not much historical information about Nahan, but what exists is significant. Nahan is close to the ancient Tea Horse Road (the section from Bangdong to Yunnan County) and was one of the more famous tea villages at the time. Nahan tea leaves are long and slender, dark green and glossy, with a noticeable orchid fragrance. During the Daoguang to Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, Nahan tea, which was small in quantity but high in quality, was sent to the capital as tribute for twelve consecutive years, earning the reputation of “The King of Teas.”
The distribution of Nahan's tea resources is relatively scattered. About 40% is located in the Dagou area; another 40% is at the junction of Nahan and Xiaoman Gang, where most of the tea trees are over a hundred years old; the remaining 20% is scattered in Lower Nahan and other areas.
The characteristics of Nahan tea can be summarized by the terms “mountain tea” and “rock tea.” “Mountain tea” refers to the fact that the tea mountain faces south and backs north, with the tea fields located on misty mountaintops. This allows the ancient tea trees of Nahan to receive ample sunlight for more than ten hours each day, leading to significant photosynthesis and resulting in rich flavors and abundant internal substances characteristic of high-altitude cloud-covered teas.
“Rock tea” is due to the high temperatures, abundant rainfall, and concurrent wet and hot seasons, which have resulted in significant Soil weathering and formation. As a result, the tea fields contain many broken stones, with red sandy loam soil being the most common, accompanied by silt loam, and a moderate pH value, rich in minerals. These conditions are conducive to the growth of tea trees and the formation of unique flavors, consistent with what is stated in the Classic of Tea: “The best tea grows in broken rocks, the second-best in gravelly soil, and the worst in yellow soil.”
It's worth noting that Nahan also has ancient tea gardens by the Lancang River, with a low-heat river valley climate. Although the geographical environment is nearly the same as that of Xigui tea, the water-soluble extracts and caffeine content of the two are quite similar when looking at the chemical indicators of the tea's internal properties. However, Xigui tea has a slight advantage in ester-type catechins and free amino acids.
In terms of taste, the two teas have a similar initial sensation, both featuring low bitterness, quick and lasting sweetness, a strong aroma, and a noticeable orchid fragrance. Upon closer examination, it becomes apparent that Xigui tea is smoother and more delicate, with a stronger tea energy. There is a certain gap in taste between the two, while the difference in price is substantial. Thus, Nahan tea has great development potential.
The Potential Mountain: Mangfei Tea
After enjoying the subtle fragrance of Nahan tea, we move on to Mengban Township in Yongde County. On the turbulent mountains of Nujiang, let's take a look at a rising and somewhat famous tea village in recent years – Mangfei.
Mangfei Village is located in Mengban Township, Yongde County, Lincang City. To its east is Mengban Village, and to its southwest is Zhenkang County. It is in the mountainous area of Yunnan and not traditionally considered a major tea-producing area. Mangfei tea has gained its fame entirely based on its quality.
Mangfei has a distinctive name. According to legend, it was once called “Dajianshan,” and later three companions went to Myanmar, unfortunately contracting tuberculosis. After returning to the village, they were placed in the uninhabited Dajianshan due to concerns about infection. Here, they raised chickens and planted tea, drinking wild tea daily, and unexpectedly their condition improved. To commemorate this event, the place was renamed “Mangfei,” meaning “the village where Drinking Tea cured tuberculosis.”
Another theory suggests that it was previously called “Mangfei,” where “Mang” means “most” in the local dialect, referring to a place with “particularly fertile soil.” Later, a geomancer found this location and believed it had “DeDang” (get courage) and “Manggan” (best Liver), and since “liver” and “lung” are neighbors, the name should be changed to “Mangfei” because of the dense forest. This theory makes more sense considering the geographical environment of Mangfei. The area receives abundant rainfall and sufficient sunlight, with the majestic Mangfei Mountain to the west and a vast primary forest bordering the southeastern part of the tea garden. The ecological environment is excellent. Although tea is the main source of income for the locals, due to transportation difficulties, the tea garden has never been fertilized or treated with pesticides but relies on organic livestock manure, making it truly natural and pollution-free.
The soil of the Mangfei tea garden is rare yellow sandy loam, typical of Yunnan tea mountains. This type of soil is rich and deep, with abundant organic matter, but its drainage and acidity are generally unsuitable for tea tree growth. Remarkably, the yellow soil in Mangfei is acidic, and tea trees are mostly planted along slopes, ensuring good drainage. This results in a rich content of effective potassium and alkaline nitrogen while providing a suitable environment for tea tree growth, which is quite rare.
Mangfei tea region has another unique feature: a certain number of small green leafhoppers are always present. These insects can harm young leaves and reduce tea production. However, studies have shown that within a reasonable range, the feeding of small green leafhoppers can stimulate the defense mechanisms of tea trees, causing specific components to change the aroma of the tea in a positive way, improving the taste.
Additionally, it's important to note that the tea fields of Mangfei are mainly divided into three parts. The lower regions, including Dashuitang and Manlanggan, are below 1,300 meters in altitude, and the tea has a lighter taste. The higher region, Jianshan tea area, is above 1,400 meters in altitude, and the tea is more Astringent. The middle region, at an altitude of 1,300 to 1,400 meters, has the most balanced taste, which is why Mangfei tea has become famous.