Bathed in spring breezes, the heart is filled with the fragrance of tea. In a perfect balance of temperature and vegetation, Linchang emerges as a prime tea-producing region along the golden latitude. Benefiting from the nourishment of nature's waters, sunlight, and moonlight, the teas of Linchang retain their primal vitality through the test of time.
Today, our editor takes you on a journey to
the Linchang District,
to “taste” one of Linchang's finest teas—the Xigui tea.
In the tea industry, there is a saying: “High mountains and mist produce fine teas.” In Linchang, there is a place at a lower altitude that still produces excellent tea, and this place is Xigui in the Linchang District.
The cultivation and processing of tea in Xigui have a long history. The late Qing Dynasty and early Republican era “Mianning County Annals” recorded: “There are about 6,000 to 7,000 households growing tea throughout the county, with Manglu and Xigu in Bangdong Township being particularly renowned. The quality and flavor of Manglu tea surpass those of other tea-producing areas.” Today, Manglu is known as Manglu, and Xigu is known as Xigui.
Xigui is a small village of 138 households, located in the administrative area of Bangdong Village, Bangdong Township, Linchang District. The ancient tea garden in Xigui sits at an elevation of 750 meters, situated on Manglu Mountain. This mountain range extends eastward from the Great Snow Mountain of Linchang, approaching the Lancang River. At the foot of the mountain lies the Xigui ferry (formerly Gali Ferry). Despite its location by the river, the high mountains and deep valleys effectively mitigate high temperatures. The average annual temperature is 21°C, falling within the optimal range of 15°C to 30°C for tea growth. The average annual rainfall of 1,600 to 2,300 millimeters nourishes all life here. The tea trees grow mixed among forests, creating a unique climate. The soil where the ancient Xigui tea trees grow is rich in humus, providing the organic matter and trace elements needed for tea tree growth. All these factors together give birth to the uniquely distinctive Xigui tea.
The most prominent feature of Xigui tea is its “aroma” and “sweet aftertaste.” The “Linchang County Annals,” published at the end of the 20th century, evaluated Xigui tea as follows: “The most precious raw green teas are Mangliu tea and Xiaoguang Mountain tea. Mangliu tea is produced in Mangliu Village, Bangdong Township. Its tea water has a high concentration, is clear, and withstands multiple infusions, leaving a refreshing and lingering taste after drinking.” Mangliu Village is now known as Xigui Village, and Mangliu tea is today's Xigui tea.
Xigui tea not only has a rich aroma but also leaves a lingering aftertaste in the mouth, summarized by tea enthusiasts as “Xigui tea, fragrant across the world, with a long-lasting sweet aftertaste.” Its tea liquor is light yellow and clear, with a more pronounced sweet aftertaste after three infusions. By the fourth to sixth Infusion, the aroma is like orchids, with a hint of rock sugar sweetness, and the tea liquor becomes slightly viscous. After the seventh infusion, the color of the tea liquor remains unchanged, yet the aftertaste lingers longer. After ten infusions, the yellow color of the tea liquor gradually fades, the sweetness diminishes slightly, but the rock sugar sweetness still lingers.
However, for a long time, Xigui tea remained relatively unknown. It wasn't until the 1960s and 1970s that Xigui tea gained recognition due to its excellent taste and long-lasting sweet aftertaste. From then on, Xigui tea gained a certain level of fame in the Linchang District. With the improvement of living standards and the increasing number of tea enthusiasts, Xigui tea became increasingly favored, and its price steadily Rose.
The year 2007 marked a turning point in the Pricing of Xigui tea. Villagers vividly recall that in that year, their own Xigui tea (from old trees) sold for just a few dozen yuan per catty. By 2008, it could be sold for over 100 yuan per catty. Since then, the price of Xigui Spring Tea has skyrocketed. Data shows that during this year's spring tea season, the price of single-tree ancient Xigui tea reached 17,600 yuan per kilogram, old-tree tea was 8,600 yuan per kilogram, and medium and young tree tea was 2,600 yuan per kilogram.
The rise in reputation and popularity led to a frenzy among tea merchants seeking Xigui tea. To ensure quality, tea merchants require tea farmers to process single-tree teas, from picking to sun-drying, all steps must be numbered. As a result, many ancient tea trees have been contracted for picking and numbered by companies and individuals.
Note
Backed by Manglu Mountain and facing the Lancang River, Xigui boasts mesmerizing natural scenery. Nearby, the Xigui Neolithic site is a testament to the habitation and life of ancient peoples. Leveraging its unique geographical advantages and tea resources, Linchang City has been actively exploring a model of “characteristic tourism towns + agricultural cooperatives + households.” The ancient tea gardens of Xigui have transformed into “happy homes for local residents and idyllic retreats for visitors” in the new era.
Bangdong Village has also made it onto the list of 97 beautiful villages in Yunnan Province. So far this year, it has welcomed a total of 65,000 tourists, generating over 3 million yuan in tourism revenue. It is expected to bring in over 600,000 yuan in operational income for the village-level collective economy, with the annual output value of Xigui tea exceeding 93 million yuan.
Reporters: Xiong Zhili, Luo Yan