It is often said that within the entire Lincang Tea region, Yongde lies to the west and Bangdong to the east, with Mengku situated right in between. For the “two mountains flanking a river” topography of Mengku, the Bingdao tea area is located along the Mengku River, precisely in the middle of the eastern and western mountain slopes. Perhaps it is due to its central location that this region enjoys a unique natural climate, giving rise to Bingdao – a star in the world of Pu'er tea.
In this article, we will have a brief chat about the Bingdao Five Villages.
Nuowu Old Village
Traveling from Lincang to Bingdao via Nanmeng direction, after driving for about two and a half hours on a fully paved road, you reach the administrative territory of Bingdao village. The Bingdao Five Villages refer to five natural villages under the jurisdiction of Bingdao administrative village, divided into two halves by the Mengku River. Strictly speaking, Bingdao Old Village, Dijie, and Nanpo belong to the western mountain slope, while Bawai and Nuowu are located on the eastern mountain slope. However, the Pu'er tea produced in these five natural villages is generally referred to as Bingdao tea in the market. In earlier years, there was even a phenomenon of mixed tea leaves. Bingdao Old Village holds a more prominent position and is usually highlighted separately as “Bingdao Old Village” or “Bingdao Authentic Mountain.”
Nuowu, located on the eastern mountain slope, is often the first stop for visitors coming from Lincang when visiting the Bingdao Five Villages. It is divided into Nuowu New Village and Nuowu Old Village, with a population of over one hundred people and a tea garden area of around 900 mu. Before the main road to Mengku was built, travelers could reach the bustling city of Lincang by crossing the mountains from Nuowu, thanks to this geographical advantage, Nuowu once became one of the wealthiest villages in the area, earning it the nickname “Little Hong Kong.” Unlike the other four villages, which have the habit of planting tea trees near their homes, only a few ancient tea trees grow around the now-abandoned houses in Nuowu Old Village. Most of them are scattered deep in the forest and Bamboo groves on the mountain, forming a unique aroma that blends Honey and glutinous rice scents. The tea has a fresh taste, thick soup quality, delicate water texture, and is sweet, soft, and smooth.
To get rich, start by building roads. In earlier years, the people of Nuowu, who were unwilling to leave the old village, raised over 200,000 yuan to dig a mountain path connecting them to the outside world. They also brought electricity lines themselves, making Nuowu Old Village one of the only two old villages (the other being Bingdao Old Village) with electricity.
Bawai Old Village
Bawai is also divided into Bawai Old Village and Bawai New Village, with a total population of over 200 people. Bawai Old Village does not have electricity and living conditions are relatively poor. However, with increasing income, many tea farmers have moved back to the old village in recent years. This is because the old village has nearly 1,200 mu of ancient tea gardens, with about 550 mu suitable for picking. Bawai's ancient tea gardens are separated from Bingdao's by only the Nanmeng River, so the taste shares many similarities with Bingdao Old Village, such as high sweetness and a strong cold Cup aroma. One downside is that the taste can be somewhat stimulating. However, the raw tea offers good value for money. Previously, a tea company took a fancy to an ancient tea tree in Bawai and contracted the rights to pick from that tree for ten years at 710,000 yuan.
The tea prices in Bawai in past years are quite interesting, reflecting the historical fluctuations in Bingdao's prices. Over 20 years ago, the overall price of fresh leaves in Bawai was just a few cents per jin. Later, with the rise of Pu'er tea, the price gradually increased to a few yuan per jin. By 2007, before the reshuffling of the Pu'er tea market, the price reached over ten yuan per jin. Today, the fresh leaves of Bawai's ancient tea trees sell for over a thousand yuan per jin, and many ancient tea gardens have been individually contracted by tea companies and enthusiasts. As a result, the lives of the tea farmers have significantly improved, truly demonstrating how “one leaf enriches a community.”
Nanpo Old Village
After crossing the eastern mountain and the Nanmeng River, we arrive in the territory of the western mountain slope. Although the distance from Mengku to Bingdao is now similar to that from Lincang to Bingdao, in the past, there was no major road connecting Mengku and the western mountain slope, making it impossible for vehicles to pass through. This resulted in the eastern mountain slope, closer to Lincang, developing much earlier than the western mountain slope. However, this isolated environment preserved excellent ecological conditions and high-quality tea here.
The entrance to Nanpo Old Village is relatively easy to find. In the past, after passing the entrance to Bingdao Old Village (which was relocated in the spring of 2021 to protect the ecosystem), one could see the dirt road leading up to Nanpo Old Village after a few hundred meters. The road is bumpy and narrow, with limited space for vehicles to pass each other, and some sections show signs of landslides, making it challenging for drivers to navigate. Tea enthusiasts should pay close attention to road conditions when driving here.
After navigating the muddy dirt road, we arrive at Nanpo Old Village. The name Nanpo originates from the Lahu language, meaning “source of water.” Indeed, the ecological environment here is excellent. Nanpo's tea gardens are about 200 to 300 meters higher than those of Bingdao Old Village, and among them stands a “Nanpo Tea King,” a tree about 10 meters tall with a canopy spanning over three meters. The overall tea price ranks highest among the four villages, second only to Bingdao Old Village.
Dijie Old Village
Similar to Nanpo, Dijie Old Village is a Lahu village built along a mountain ridge. It is also one of the most inaccessible tea villages in the Bingdao Five Villages. In the past, when tea was not valuable, the local government arranged for the villagers of Dijie Old Village to relocate to areas near the road. However, the Lahu people could not bear to part with the tea trees planted by their ancestors. Since 2007, tea farmers have gradually returned to the old village. With the rising tea prices in recent years, the people here no longer worry about their livelihoods.
Perhaps due to its proximity to the virgin forest, the ancient tea trees in Dijie Old Village possess a unique wild character. The tea is slightly bitter but transforms quickly, with a fine and viscous broth that is long-lasting and rich in flavor. Notably, the terrain in Dijie Old Village is steep. To reduce Soil erosion, the locals use bamboo fences to secure the land around the ancient tea trees, preventing soil from becoming loose and sliding down, thus protecting the root systems of the tea trees. This simple act embodies the great wisdom of harmonious coexistence between humans and tea.