The Six Great Tea Mountains of Yunnan have become iconic in the tea industry. When it comes to Pu'er tea, one cannot help but mention the Six Great Tea Mountains, each with its unique flavor. According to the account by Tan Cui, a scholar from the Qianlong era, in his work “Yunnan Ocean and Border Records,” “Pu'er tea is renowned throughout the world, produced in six tea mountains under the jurisdiction of Pu'er: first, Youle; second, Gedeng; third, Yibang; fourth, Mangzhi; fifth, Manzhuan; sixth, Mansa. They span eight hundred miles.” This “eight hundred miles” not only refers to the area of the tea mountains but also indicates that the Six Great Tea Mountains are contiguous. To the west lies Youle Tea Mountain, in the middle are Gedeng, Mangzhi, Yibang, and Manzhuan Tea Mountains, and to the east is Mansa (Mansa) Tea Mountain. Today, let us explore the historical culture and characteristics of Gedeng tea together.
The Origin of Gedeng:
Upon first hearing the name Gedeng, I was quite curious and felt a bit taken aback. In fact, Gedeng is a word from the Bulang language (indicating that there were Bulang people living here), meaning “a very high place.” In the old village of Gedeng, there is a hilltop surrounded on three sides by ravines and adjacent to a slope, making it an easily defensible location. There is also a legend that Zhuge Liang stationed his troops here and buried horseshoe stirrups at this site, hence the name Gedeng.
The Geographical Location of Gedeng:
Gedeng Tea Mountain is located in Anle Village, Xiangming Town, Mengla County, Xishuangbanna Prefecture, Yunnan Province, China. It is situated between Yibang Tea Mountain and Mangzhi Tea Mountain. The ancient tea region of Gedeng features towering peaks and deep valleys, with rivers like the Moyer River and Luosuo River running through it. During winter, the area is often shrouded in mist, and the region enjoys abundant sunshine year-round without extreme cold in winter or heat in summer. The highest point in the Gedeng Tea Mountain area is the Mountain God Temple at 1,950 meters above sea level, while the lowest point is where the Moyer River meets the Xiaohei River, at an altitude of 565 meters. The ancient tea gardens of Gedeng are mainly concentrated in five villages: Zhibang, Xinfa Village, Xinjiufang, Shiliangzi, and Qioutoushan.
Tea Mountain History
The tea king tree of Gedeng is recorded in both the “Simao Hall Annals” and the “Pu'er Annals”: “In Gedeng, there is a tea king tree, uniquely taller and larger than other tea trees. Locals perform wine offerings and rituals when they harvest its leaves.” Among the numerous large tea trees in the Six Great Tea Mountains, only this one was documented and crowned as the king, giving an idea of its remarkable size. It is said that this tea king tree could yield five baskets of fresh leaves in a single year. The tea king tree stands beside “Kongming,” and the locals believe that it was planted by Zhuge Liang. Therefore, before the Spring Tea harvest every year, tea farmers from several tea mountains come to pay homage to the tea king tree and honor Zhuge Liang. Thousands gather on a vast meadow, bowing toward Mount Kongming, offering wine, singing, dancing, and praying for prosperity in the tea mountains and peace in their lives. Legend has it that whatever is sung on the ridge of the tea king tree will be echoed back by Mount Kongming across the valley.
Current State of Ancient Trees: Despite some destruction over time, a small portion of the ancient tea garden still exists in the dense forest. In recent years, these areas have been cleared, and both large and small leaf varieties grow together.
Characteristics of Gedeng Tea
Tea Trees: The tea trees of Gedeng belong to a mix of wild, large, medium, and small leaf varieties.
Dry Tea: With a light floral and fruity aroma, there's a hint of sweetness. The dry tea is robust and darkly lustrous.
Aroma: The aroma is distinctive, with noticeable floral notes, high fragrance, and good aroma in the cup.
Color: The tea soup is a pale golden color, clear, and free of impurities.
Taste: The upper palate experiences a sweet, slightly Honey-like sensation, with a mild bitterness, and the tip of the tongue detects a distinct fruity sweetness.
Leaf Base: Yellow-green, complete, and resilient.
Gedeng tea is a mix of large and small leaf varieties. The dry tea emits a light floral and fruity aroma with a hint of sweetness. Once brewed, the tea liquor is bright Orange-yellow, exuding a unique mountain wilderness scent. It has a strong tea essence, with quick returning sweetness and saliva generation, a rich and lingering aroma, and a smooth and delicate texture.