China is the birthplace of Tea, and most Chinese people love it, from the imperial court to ordinary citizens. The ancient Chinese imperial court's fondness for tea drinking and Tea culture led to the establishment of a tribute tea system that has lasted for thousands of years, exerting a profound and lasting influence on China's tea production and tea cultural heritage.
### Concept of Tribute Tea
What is tribute tea? According to the dictionary, “tribute” can mean:
1. The act of paying tribute or presenting items by vassal states or subjects to their sovereign or the imperial court.
2. The items presented as tribute.
3. The recommendation of talented individuals.
4. The tax system during the Xia Dynasty.
5. To present something.
6. A surname.
Therefore, tribute tea refers to tea offered as a gift by vassal states or subjects to the emperor or the imperial court.
Tea falls under the category of local tribute, which consists of local specialties or regional products. There are primarily two types of local tribute: regular tribute with set quotas and miscellaneous tribute for the royal family's needs at any time. The principle of “tribute according to the land” dictates that “the tribute should be based on what the land produces.” The diversity of tea varieties and processing methods in tribute tea reflects the varied ecological environments and customs across China's vast territories, contributing to the rich tapestry of tea cultural heritage.
In addition to being part of local tribute, tea was also presented as a tribute item by local officials, gentry, or social elites. They would offer tributes to the imperial court periodically or irregularly for various reasons, such as personal interests, the preferences of the powerful within the court, or to showcase excellent local products not yet recognized by the imperial court.
### Historical Evolution of Chinese Tribute Tea and Imperial Tasting
The journal *Archaeology and Cultural Relics* published an article in 2021 titled “Analysis of Tea Remains from Tomb No. 1 of the Western Ridge Cemetery Site in the Ancient City of Zuduo, Shandong Province.” This study used infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and thermally assisted hydrolysis methylation gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (THM-Py-GC-MS) to analyze tea residue samples found in a primitive porcelain bowl excavated from Tomb No. 1, confirming that they were tea dregs left after brewing. This tomb belonged to the wife of the ruler of the State of Zuduo. This archaeological discovery confirms that tea was enjoyed in the courts of Chinese feudal states as early as the Warring States period. However, definitive written records about tribute tea in a unified China appear relatively later.
The earliest mention of tea as a tribute appears in *The Chronicles of Huayang* by Chang Qum of the Eastern Jin Dynasty. It describes the state of Baziguo: “To the east lies Yufu, to the west, Baidao… Mulberry, silk, flax, ramie… tea, honey… all were tributed… Its subjects include the Pu, Zan, Ju… tribes.” There is some debate over whether this reference to tea as a tribute occurred during the Western Zhou or Eastern Jin periods. However, this text proves that by the latest in the Eastern Jin period, tribute tea as a form of local tribute was a historical fact. In addition to the records of tribute tea in Bashu in the Jin Dynasty, tribute tea from Anhui was also recorded in *Supplement to the Compendium of Materia Medica*: “Jin Wenqiao presented one thousand catties of tea and three hundred catties of fine tea.”
During the Tang Dynasty, the custom of tea drinking flourished. Under the appreciation and promotion of Lu Yu, the tea sage, Zisun tea from Changxing, Huzhou, gained a reputation and became tribute tea. “Zisun tea was first offered as tribute in the fifth year of Dali (770 AD).” At this time, a tribute tea institute was built on Guzhu Mountain, where tea leaves from various towns were processed. Guzhu Zisun tea enjoyed a 605-year history as tribute tea until its discontinuation in the eighth year of Hongwu (1375 AD). Tang Dynasty officials Zhang Wengu and Du Mu wrote poems about the tribute of Zisun tea. Zhang Wengu's poem, “Huzhou Tribute New Tea,” vividly portrays the imperial court's affection for Zisun tribute tea from Huzhou: “The imperial carriage returns half-drunk from springtime, and fairy attendants serve water as the imperial curtain opens. The peony blooms, and golden hairpins shimmer, announcing the arrival of purple sprout tea from Wuxing.”
In 1987, a set of gold and Silver tea utensils was unearthed in Fufeng, Shanxi, which Emperor Xizong had given to Famen Temple. These included a tea container, a tea roaster, a measuring tool, a salt container, a water container, a tea brewing tool, hygiene tools, and a container for tea snacks, demonstrating the imperial court's emphasis on tea drinking and tea ceremony.
According to *New Book of Tang*, a total of 16 prefectures were required to offer tribute tea, including Shouchun Prefecture in Shouzhou, Huainan Circuit, and Jinning Prefecture in Changzhou, Jiangnan Circuit, spanning provinces like Hubei, Sichuan, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Fujian.
The custom of tea drinking was prevalent during the Song Dynasty, with “tea meetings,” “tea banquets,” and “tea competitions” becoming popular. Emperor Huizong of the Song Dynasty had a particular fondness for tea, elevating Song Dynasty tea ceremony and tea culture to new heights. Therefore, the development of tribute tea during the Song Dynasty surpassed that of the Tang Dynasty, with the establishment of a larger official tea plantation in Jian'an, Fujian, for “Jian tea.”
Ding Wei, a transportation commissioner during the reign of Emperor Zhenzong, supervised the production of Jian'an Beiyuan tribute tea and presented forty cakes of large Longfeng tea cakes, which pleased the emperor. He was promoted to “vice-premier” and granted the title of “Duke of Jin.” Dragon and Phoenix tea became the exclusive tea of the imperial court. Later, Cai Xiang, the transportation commissioner of Fujian during the reign of Emperor Renzong, produced Xiao Long tea cakes. In a note beside his poem “Making Tea,” Cai Xiang wrote: “In that year, ten pounds of new tea were remade, which was exceptionally exquisite and refined. By imperial decree, it was designated as superior Long tea and continued to be offered as tribute annually.” This shows that the newly remade tea was identified as superior by the imperial court and remained tribute tea.
During the reign of Emperor Shenzong, “Miyun Dragon” tribute tea emerged, followed by “Ruiyun Xianglong” during the reign of Emperor Zhezong. During the reign of Emperor Huizong, due to the emperor's extreme love for tea, even more innovative designs of new tea varieties appeared, such as “Imperial Garden Jade Bud,” “Wanshou Dragon Bud,” and “Dragon Cake Superior to Snow.” The influence of tribute tea on the innovation and development of tea-making techniques in China is evident.
Tribute tea was made in official tea plantations. According to *Trial of Tea in Dongxi* by Song Zian in the Northern Song Dynasty, there were 32 official tea plantations in Jian'an at the time. In addition to the Beiyuan tribute tea in Jian'an, there were imperial tea gardens in Jiangxi, Sichuan, Jiangsu, and other places.
Emperor Huizong Zhao Ji, a distinguished scholar and expert in tea tasting, also excelled in tea art. His book *Da Guan Tea Treatise* mentions that Long and Phoenix tea cakes were the most famous in the world at the time. The entire society, from the literati to the common folk, indulged in tea drinking. For tea tasting, Huizong mainly judged the appearance and color of the tea, stating, “Essentially, the tea should be clear and bright without discoloration, finely textured without floating particles. When lifted, it should feel solid, and when ground, it should sound crisp, indicating that it is of high quality.” Huizong highly praised white tea that grows naturally in the cliffs and forests, saying that if prepared delicately, “it is crystal clear inside and out, like jade in its raw state, unparalleled.” For grinding tea, Huizong believed that “silver is best, followed by wrought iron.” The tea cups used should be “dark blue or black.” Moreover, “the bottom should be slightly deep and wide,” because “a deeper bottom allows the tea to stand upright, making it easier to extract the cream; a wider bottom facilitates the whisk's rotation without hindering the whisking.” The amount of tea placed in the cup and the temperature of the cup were also considered important by Huizong. Good