Introduction: Okinawa, originally named Ryukyu, was a vassal state of China during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The name “Ryukyu” was given to the archipelago by the Chinese during the Ming Dynasty. Historically, Ryukyu maintained close cultural exchanges and maritime trade with China, Japan, Korea, and Southeast Asian countries.
Nearly transparent Okinawan sea
In the mid-17th century, after the transition from the Ming to the Qing dynasty, the Qing dynasty became the ruler of China. In its relations with Ryukyu, the Qing dynasty continued the tributary system established by the Ming dynasty. With the increasing frequency of exchanges between Qing China and Ryukyu, the method of infused tea preparation also spread from Fujian to Ryukyu and became popular there in the early 18th century.
The 18th-century Gongfu tea drinking methods and utensils that were transmitted from Fujian to Ryukyu have since become the basic model for Ryukyu Infused Tea.
In 1718 (57th year of the Kangxi era), Xu Baoguang traveled to Ryukyu as a vice envoy for the investiture mission. Due to typhoon weather, he stayed in Ryukyu for nearly a year before returning to China. During his stay, he extensively researched local customs and social conditions, leaving behind the book “Zhongshan Zhuanxinlu.” Regarding tea-drinking customs in Ryukyu, he observed that two different ways of drinking tea were prevalent at the time: one was the method of whipped tea, and the other was the method of brewing tea using covered bowls, which he surmised was a tea offering method learned from China.
The Ryukyu National Gate, inscribed by Emperor Wanli as a land of propriety
These two methods of drinking tea coexisted in the upper echelons of Ryukyu society. Later, the more convenient method of infused tea gradually replaced the traditional whipped tea method and became a common way of drinking tea among both officials and commoners in Ryukyu.
To adapt to this change in tea-drinking habits, Ryukyu sent technicians to Fujian to learn tea-making and tea-growing techniques. According to volume thirteen of the Ryukyuan history book “Kyūyō,” in 1731 (9th year of the Yongzheng era), Ryukyuan noble Xiang Xiumei went to Fuzhou to study tea-making techniques. Upon his return, he was ordered to develop an imperial tea garden in the mountainous area of Nishihara Town, exclusively for the royal family. This is the earliest record of tea cultural exchange between Ryukyu and Fujian.
The Fuzhou Garden built by Ryukyuans of Fujian descent to commemorate their homeland
According to the genealogy of the Shuri nobility, “Shuri Keigengo,” when Xiang Xiumei returned, “he brought back tea-making equipment and successfully tested the production of tea in Ryukyu. The teas produced, including Qingming, Wuyi, and Songluo, had a fragrant aroma and a sweet taste, no different from those in China.” It goes without saying that along with the tea, Chinese Tea utensils and tea-drinking etiquette were also introduced to Okinawa.
The “Ōshima Kibun,” written in 1762, detailed the “infused tea method” that had been transmitted from China. “Infused tea” refers to the method of brewing loose leaf tea: about one tablespoon of tea is placed in a covered bowl, and water is boiled in a clay pot known colloquially as a “chuanshin can” and poured into the tea bowl with the cover on. When serving tea to guests, the tea liquid is evenly distributed into each tea cup while the leaves remain in the covered bowl. Each person has their own bowl, and the concentration of the tea liquid in each bowl is just right.
The site of the Angel Pavilion where Ryukyu received Chinese investiture envoys during the Ming and Qing dynasties
The “Ōshima Kibun” also recorded the types of tea, tea utensils, and tea-drinking etiquette used in Okinawa. Based on its descriptions, we can understand several characteristics of tea drinking in 18th-century Okinawa: first, the Chinese method of brewing loose leaf tea had been introduced to the Ryukyu Islands; second, the tea used was mainly Qingming tea produced in Mount Gu in Fuzhou, as well as Dan Gui and Lan Xiang teas from Fujian; third, most of the tea utensils were unglazed pottery from Yuchan County in Hangzhou. Similar tea-drinking scenes are described in the diary of Ie Chomu, who served as a chief official in the late 18th century.
Ie Chomu was a high-ranking official with a strong love for tea. Every time he drank tea, he would write about the utensils or tea used in detail in his diary. From these records, we know that he commonly used “covered tea bowls,” “infused tea cups,” and “tea pots,” all of which are utensils used for brewing loose leaf tea, not whipped tea utensils. From this, we can see that the Chinese method of drinking tea had a decisive influence on the people of Okinawa, and the tea-drinking customs in Okinawa had transformed from Japanese whipped tea to Fujian Gongfu tea.
Hibiscus flowers in Okinawa
Okinawan tea drinking is quite distinctive and differs significantly from that on the main islands of Japan. Generally, Okinawans do not drink Green Tea produced locally, nor do they drink Black Tea or milk tea that are popular in major cities like Tokyo, Osaka, and Kobe. When Okinawans drink tea, over 90% of the time it is “Sanpincha,” which is Jasmine tea familiar to the people of Fujian, following the traditional name used in the Fuzhou dialect region for jasmine tea.
The majority of Sanpincha in Okinawa is produced on the island itself according to ancient methods. Specifically, the process involves mixing 50 kilograms of tea leaves with 30 kilograms of jasmine flowers for scenting. When visiting an Okinawan home, after exchanging greetings and taking a seat, a set of tea utensils is typically placed on the Coffee table or dining table. Wooden tea trays, slightly rough earthenware tea utensils, or exquisite porcelain are used, with wide lids and metal strainers inside. A spoon is dipped into the tea jar, scooping out a full spoonful of Sanpincha tea leaves, dark green and finely curled, with a few dried white flowers mixed in. After boiling water is added and the lid is placed on top, the fragrance of jasmine begins to subtly emanate from the spout. After about a minute, the host lifts the teapot and pours the tea into the cups, transforming the light fragrance into a rich one. Taking a sip, the tea's aroma instantly spreads from the taste buds throughout the mouth, making even the eyes feel refreshed.
Everyday and ceremonial attire of the Ryukyuans
The Okinawans have also integrated traditional health wisdom into their tea drinking, forming