In order to brew ripened tea in a tasty manner, the author conducted experiments on various aspects such as the brewing vessel, water, and brewing techniques. Here are some insights gained. The general approach is: first, analyze the nature of the tea and identify its characteristics; second, determine the brewing objectives based on these characteristics, aiming to follow the natural flow and capitalize on strengths while mitigating weaknesses; third, consider specific means to achieve these goals; finally, further analyze through practice to validate and adjust accordingly.
1. Analyzing the Nature of the Tea
In terms of aroma. New ripened teas have a pile Fermentation smell, but good teas will develop floral honey aromas or even aged aromas during mid-to-late infusions. Aged ripened teas have storage and withered leaf aromas, but good aged teas will develop excellent aged aromas or even medicinal aromas during mid-to-late infusions.
In terms of taste. New ripened teas are no longer very stimulating or Astringent, but they have a pleasant mouthfeel. When brewed properly, they can exhibit a viscous and sandy texture like red bean soup. Aged ripened teas have a clearer broth and milder taste, but they can have a high level of smoothness and oiliness. When brewed properly, they can reach an almost melting state.
2. Establishing Objectives Based on the Nature of the Tea
For the first few infusions: suppress undesirable odors (pile and storage smells), enhance viscosity, thickness, and oiliness, tilting the balance from aroma to taste. Aim to brew a cup with a mild aroma but soft and smooth broth. At the same time, control the concentration of the initial infusions to preserve the performance of the final infusions and improve overall brewing endurance.
For the middle infusions: when you notice the aroma turning “mellow,” appropriately stimulate the aroma. Strive for a balanced harmony between aroma and taste. Brew a cup that combines both aroma and taste, where the two are well integrated.
For the last few infusions: the taste and mouthfeel components have been fully extracted. Without ensuring mouthfeel, focus on stimulating the aroma, brewing a sweet and smooth cup.
3. Choosing Means to Achieve the Objectives
1. Use a thick clay, low-fired purple clay teapot. Make full use of the physical characteristics of the purple clay teapot, which is beneficial for absorbing and suppressing unwanted odors, as well as allowing the leaves to breathe and retain warmth. Moreover, teapot shapes with wide mouths, large bellies, and short bodies, such as antique-style or shi piao, are more conducive to controlling the water temperature and the dissipation of unwanted odors. Lastly, the teapot must pour water quickly and smoothly. The concentration of ripened tea changes rapidly over time during brewing, and the leaves can easily clog the spout, making it difficult to control the concentration of the tea broth with a slow-pouring teapot.
2. Brew with mineral water with a higher pH (7-8).
3. Wake up the tea appropriately. This refers to changing the storage environment of the tea before brewing. For example, prying a piece off a tea cake and placing it in a clay jar for a period of time. Allow the tea to come into contact with air appropriately, adjusting its internal moisture content.
4. Pre-heat the teapot with hot water. Common methods include:
First method: Open the lid and pour hot water over the body of the teapot (choose an appropriate shape).
Second method: Open the lid and place the teapot on a rack inside a container of boiling water, similar to steaming buns.
Third method: Open the lid and place the teapot on the lid opening of a container of boiling water, steaming.
5. Control the brewing water temperature. Generally, lowering the water temperature will make all odors milder; increasing the water temperature will strengthen them. In particular, continuous high-temperature brewing is the only way to stimulate the aged aroma of aged teas.
Purple clay Teapots themselves have strong heat retention properties and can be continuously poured over with boiling water to increase the brewing temperature. On the other hand, gaiwans have poorer heat retention, and the leaves cool down very quickly without water. To maintain the temperature of the leaves, there is an important technique: after pouring out the tea, add water to the gaiwan first, then serve the tea to guests using a sharing pitcher. Specific operations will be discussed in detail in the practical exercises section later.
6. Control the stability of the water flow when adding water. The technique is a key point, here's a brief explanation. Generally speaking: aroma depends on a powerful pour, while taste relies on a gentle pour. That is, if you want the tea broth to be highly aromatic, pour quickly and forcefully, causing the tea leaves to swirl vigorously within the container and rub against the water, but this will sacrifice mouthfeel; if you want the tea broth to be smooth and soft, pour water steadily and slowly into one spot in the brewing vessel, but this will sacrifice aroma.
This rule is rather broad. The art of brewing is about balance, and in practical applications, many adjustments need to be made based on the different natures of the tea and different manufacturing processes. However, generally speaking, it is quite practical for brewing ripened teas. Below, we specifically analyze the main effects of five basic water pouring techniques on brewing.
High Pour: Long, thick water stream. The water cools less in the air, and the time needed to fill the gaiwan is short, with the strongest agitation.
High Drip: Long, thin water stream. The water cools the most in the air, and the time needed to fill the gaiwan is long, with less agitation.
Low Drip: Short, thin water stream. The water cools less in the air, and the time needed to fill the gaiwan is long, with the least agitation.
Circular Pour: Move the spout of the kettle while pouring. Its primary role is to increase agitation and improve the uniformity of the tea leaves' contact with water.
To ensure the coherence and fusion of the taste, there are two small techniques for circular pouring:
First, complete a full circle, ending the pour back at the starting point. This requires adjusting the speed of rotation according to the speed of pouring. If the water stream is thin, rotate slowly; if the water stream is thick, rotate quickly.
Second, maintain the stability of the water stream during rotation, keeping it consistently thick, high, and even.
Fixed Point Drip: Without circular movement, keep the spout in one spot while pouring, known as fixed point dripping.
7. Choice of Kettle. To control the water flow, a kettle with a well-designed spout is essential. Regardless of price and material, prioritize those that can produce a round and stable water stream and allow for precise control of the thickness, thinness, speed, and force of the water stream.
In the practical exercises below, a gaiwan is used instead of a purple clay teapot for demonstration purposes. Gaiwans are more difficult to control than purple clay teapots, thus providing better training. If controlled properly, gaiwans can also brew a pleasant and smooth tea broth, similar to that produced by a purple clay teapot.