In China's culinary culture, the phrase “eat seasonally” holds great significance. These four words succinctly capture the close relationship between food and seasons. For tea culture, there are also many considerations when drinking in accordance with the time of year. According to traditional Chinese medicine: “In the midst of winter, when all life is dormant, the physiological activities of the human body are in a state of inhibition, the key to health preservation lies in keeping warm.” Therefore, winter tea drinking emphasizes the concept of “warmth.” Not only should the tea focus on warmth and nourishment, but the tea-drinking ritual itself should also strive to create a warm atmosphere.
Snow Melting and Tea Boiling: The Poetic Warm Winter of the Ancients
“The tea Kettle startles at its boiling in the midnight hours, just as the snow on the bamboo outside the frosty window shines brightly.” This line captures the elegant scene of the Tang Dynasty poet Sikong Tu boiling tea during winter. However, tea boiling did not begin in the Tang Dynasty; it started during the Western Han Dynasty. During the Han, Wei, and Six Dynasties periods, tea was “cooked together,” resulting in a thick soup that was then consumed. At that time, there were no specialized utensils for boiling or drinking tea; typically, tea was boiled in pots or cauldrons and drunk from bowls. In the early Tang Dynasty, literati began drinking tea, leading to the formation of tea culture. With the publication of Lu Yu's “Classic of Tea,” the development of tea culture in the Tang Dynasty gradually reached its peak.
To boil a good pot of tea, according to “The Classic of Tea,” one must first use charcoal to roast tea cakes, then heat up the stove and roast the tea. Next, the roasted tea would be crushed and ground into powder, sealed in a paper bag, and stored in a golden tortoise. Only then would water be boiled. When the sound of boiling water could be heard, tea powder would be added. “When it boils, like fish eyes, with a slight sound, this is the first boil; along the edges, like bubbling springs forming strings of pearls, this is the second boil; when waves rise and drums beat, this is the third boil. After the third boil, the water is too old and cannot be used.” This means that boiling tea “three times” is perfect, as boiling it too much will result in poor taste.
Su Shi was an expert at boiling tea. In his poem “Boiling Tea in the Examination Hall,” he wrote: “After the crab-eye bubbles, fish-eye bubbles form, making a whistling sound like the wind through pines. Soft tea powder falls like fine beads from the mill, swirling around the cup like light snow.” He vividly describes the temperature and sound of the water, the form of the tea leaves after being ground, and the appearance of the tea in the cup. The Southern Song Dynasty poet Lu You found his own joy and elegance in seclusion. “At sunset, a few crows linger outside the sparse forest, and beyond the gaps in the mountains lies my home. What adds to the charm upon returning? Boiling tea by the lamp before a small stove.” A few cold crows circle above the sparse forest at dusk, and at the foot of the mountains lies his secluded home. What is the most delightful thing upon returning? Boiling a fragrant pot of steaming tea.
There are various types of water used for boiling tea. In “The Classic of Tea,” Lu Yu divided natural water into three categories: “mountain spring water is best,” “river water is second,” and “well water is third.” Additionally, there is “snow water.” In “Treatise on Tea,” Emperor Huizong of the Song Dynasty said: “Water is beautiful when clear, light, sweet, and clean. Lightness and sweetness are natural qualities of water, especially rare.” Generally speaking, the first three types of water are commonly used for drinking tea, while snow water is less common. In Chapter 41 of “Dream of the Red Chamber,” tea is boiled using snow collected from plum blossoms, adding more romance and poetry to winter tea drinking. However, the use of “snow water” for boiling tea is not a rarity invented by Cao Xueqin. The ancients had examples of using “rainwater” and “snow water” for boiling tea.
In his poem “Boiling Tea,” the Tang Dynasty's Lu Guimeng wrote: “Leisurely sitting among pines, watching the snow on the pines melt and boil.” In the preface to his poem “Two Sequenced Reversed Dream Poems,” Su Shi of the Song Dynasty mentioned: “Boiling small tea cakes with snow water in a dream.” In his poem “Boiling Tea After Snow,” Lu You wrote: “Snow melts and clears the wellspring, so I carry my tea stove to boil and Brew. There is nothing else to concern myself with; it's not in vain to have lived a hundred years on earth.” The poet admires the snow scenery while boiling and brewing tea. The pure, flawless snow water, melted over wood fires, results in a clear and refreshing tea that helps one forget worldly concerns, leaving behind only the fragrance of tea in the world.
Winter Hearth Gatherings: The Leisurely Sentiment of Modern People
In recent years, a tea-drinking method with a strong sense of ceremony has become popular on social media: “hearthside tea boiling.” A red clay stove burning brightly, a rough earthenware pot filled with tea, a grill filled with various dried fruits and fruit slices, inviting two or three friends to sit around for an entire afternoon—this is the “winter tea drinking ritual” of modern people. It's hard to say whether modern “hearthside tea boiling” isn't derived from ancient tea-boiling habits, but according to data, hearthside tea boiling has indeed become very popular.
Enthusiastic netizen Chongchong provided information.
On Douyin, videos related to “hearthside tea boiling” have been viewed more than 3 billion times. On Xiaohongshu, topics related to hearthside tea boiling have been viewed nearly 12 million times. Data from Dianping shows that since November, searches for “hearthside tea boiling” have increased 11.7 times compared to 2021, driving rapid industry growth. Cities like Chengdu, Shanghai, and Hangzhou have seen the highest online sales. Since December, the number of physical businesses offering “hearthside tea boiling” services listed on Dianping has increased by 326% month-over-month.
The popularity of hearthside tea boiling reflects the growing recognition and love of traditional “tea culture” among people, especially the younger generation. Charcoal stoves, Teapots, and roasted items can simply create a uniquely Chinese winter atmosphere and sense of ceremony, satisfying modern people's desire to take photos and check in. On the other hand, this smoky yet cozy and warm way of socializing resonates with modern people's longing for a slower pace of life, providing a poetic and distant escape from the cold.
Not all teas are suitable for boiling. If it's a lightly fermented new tea, the substances within have not yet transformed, and excessive heating may cause the tea to turn black and the tea broth to turn purple, with bitterness released too early, making it difficult to drink. Therefore, white tea, ripe Pu'er, black tea, dark tea, and others that have undergone the test of time are most suitable. When boiling tea, one should use unsteeped tea leaves to achieve a harmonious flavor and full-bodied texture. Along with the rituals of boiling tea that the ancients left for us, they also helped us select the most appropriate tea varieties for the season.
As for the considerations regarding water for boiling tea, perhaps today's snow water may not be suitable for tea preparation. Although preferences for tea consumption have changed over hundreds or thousands of years, the love for life and the unique romanticism of Chinese living remains unchanged, whether it's the ancients' snow melting and tea boiling or modern people's hearthside tea boiling.