Why does the tea you brew always taste different from that of a tea artist?
It turns out that every step, from boiling water, selecting utensils, preparing the tea leaves to brewing, can affect the infusion.
Brewing tea is not only a technical skill but also requires meticulous attention. The details make or break the result. Whether the tea tastes good or not depends on whether you have paid attention to these details and methods.
Boiling Water
Boil water this way for better-tasting tea
In his book, “The Classic of Tea,” Lu Yu of the Tang Dynasty described three stages of boiling water:
First Boil: When the water starts bubbling like fish eyes with a gentle sound;
Second Boil: When bubbles rise like a spring of pearls;
Third Boil: When the water surges and waves like a rushing tide.
For modern people, boil water quickly over high heat instead of slowly over low heat. When the water continuously bubbles at the second or just into the third boil, its activity is best. If boiled too long, the oxygen content decreases, reducing its activity, which we often refer to as “over-boiled” water. This negatively impacts the infusion.
If using tap water, boil it longer since it contains chlorine from disinfection. When the water boils, open the lid of the kettle and keep it boiling for about one minute to remove some of the chlorine and reduce any off-flavors.
Selecting Utensils
Different teas require different teaware.
Green Tea: Choose a glass cup or pot to admire the leaves dancing in the water. Do not use a purple clay pot, as green tea requires lower temperatures, and the strong heat retention of a purple clay pot may scorch the leaves.
Black Tea: Use glass or white porcelain ware to easily observe the color and golden rim of the black tea infusion.
Oolong Tea: To highlight the fragrant aroma of oolong tea, use a porcelain gaiwan, which is convenient for smelling and doesn't absorb flavors. For a deeper taste, choose a purple clay pot, which enhances the tea's character. Purple clay pots have good heat retention and can be warmed by pouring hot water over them, ensuring an optimal brewing temperature.
Pu'er Tea: Older Pu'er teas are suitable for brewing in a purple clay pot. The unique double-pore structure of purple clay improves breathability and can alleviate any peculiar smells that may develop during storage, enhancing the layers and depth of the tea.
White Tea: White Silver Needle, made from very tender leaves, should not be brewed at high temperatures. Therefore, use a large-mouthed gaiwan to avoid scorching the leaves. For Bai Mudan, Shoumei, or Gongmei, there are fewer restrictions on the type of teaware used. Older white teas can even be brewed in a clay pot.
Preparing the Tea
Here's how to measure tea without a scale.
What if you don't have an electronic scale to weigh your tea? No problem! Simply judge the amount based on the shape of the leaves and the size of the teapot.
Green Tea: For flat-shaped green teas like Longjing or Zhuyeqing, a thin layer covering the bottom of the pot is sufficient. For slightly fluffier green teas like Mao Feng or Melon Seed, fill about 1/5 of the pot volume.
Black Tea: For finer and tighter black teas like Keemun or Jin Junmei, fill about 1/5 of the pot volume. For larger-leaf black teas like Dian Hong, fill about 1/4 of the pot volume.
Oolong Tea: Oolong teas require a larger quantity. For tightly rolled oolongs like Tie Guan Yin, add around thirty beads. For coarser oolongs like Dancong or rock oolongs, fill 1/3 to 1/2 of the pot volume.
Pu'er Tea: For loose-leaf Pu'er, fill about 1/3 of the pot volume. For compressed Pu'er, break off a piece that covers the bottom of the pot.
White Tea: For White Silver Needle, fill about 1/3 of the pot volume. For Bai Mudan, Shoumei, or Gongmei, which are coarser and fluffier, fill about 1/2 of the pot volume.
Water Temperature
Water temperature is a crucial factor in brewing tea.
Green Tea: Do not use water hotter than 90°C, or the freshness and vitality of the infusion will decrease;
Black Tea: Use water between 85°C and 90°C to maintain the sweetest flavor. Higher temperatures can cause bitterness and astringency;
Oolong Tea: Use boiling water; otherwise, the aroma won't be fully released, and the robust character won't come through;
White Tea: Brew White Silver Needle and Bai Mudan with water below 90°C to emphasize their sweetness and avoid bitterness. For older varieties like Shoumei, boiling water can be used;
Dark Tea: Requires boiling water to extract the thick texture and rich flavor.
There's no need to buy a thermometer specifically to measure the temperature. For teas that require water below boiling point, pour the water into a pitcher to cool for a bit. Place your hand above the pitcher to feel the heat (keep a safe distance to avoid burns). With a few attempts, you'll be able to gauge the ideal water temperature.
Brewing Technique
The technique used in brewing can subtly influence the tea.
Common pouring techniques include high pouring, circular pouring, and spot pouring. When applying these techniques, understand the principles behind them and why certain teas require high pouring while others need low pouring.
High Pour, Low Serve
This term means to pour higher when brewing and lower when serving. This method helps release the aroma of the tea and retain it during serving, thus preserving the aroma throughout the brewing process.
Aroma Through Pouring, Taste Through Serving
This means that the aroma is enhanced by pouring, so to bring out the fragrance of the tea, pour boiling water from a height to create a more pronounced aroma. To achieve a smooth and layered taste, serve the tea from a lower height, allowing the tea to infuse gently with a soft stream.